Probably one of the coolest discoveries I've found online was that of a transcription of a diary that belonged to my 4th great uncle Philip Frederick Castleman. It is a day to day diary of his trip from Kentucky to California and then to Oregon during the Gold Rush.
1849
Larue Co., Ky
May 23rd Wednesday: We
arose at the break of day and after attending to camp duties we struck our
tents and started on our journey we passed several encampments and from many we
heard of sickness which Nebrasca T. seemed to be fatal to allmost everyone that
wer attacted with it. We passed through an *Indian village on Wolf creek here
the Indians demand a tole they said that we were burning all there wood &
that our animals wer eating all the grass besides they had built a kind of a
bridg across the Creek so we paid them two bits apeace for our waggons be
making them some presents. The Chief appeared to be in a great deal of distress
he said that his people wer at war with the Pawnees and that a war party had
just returned stating that his brother had been killed in an attact made on the
previous eavening by the enemies. We past the mission this afternoon. Here we
heard several horred stories about the Indians attacting the emigrants on the
road but we had made up or minds to heare of nothing else so we were not
alarmed in the least. We traveled on untill dark in search of wood and water
but was at last campelled to stop without eather our horses were hobbled and
turned out on the grass which were a little better than it was when we had
camped on the previous eavening when we had drunk the little watter that we had
in our canteens with some parched meal we all aly down to rest under the canopy
of heaven without a gard as we supposed we wer in no danger of Indians
notwithstanding the many horred tales we had had at the mission. The country
wver which we have traveled today is verry rolen but verry fertile with a verry
little timber. Weather fare Dis 20 miles.
Fort Kerny
June 4th Monday:
Before we could get off this morning I discovered a no of waggons on the road
whiched looked like they were all of the same company s they were extended for
some five or six miles on the road in a perfect block we past Fort Kerney at
then o'clock this morning when we found many emigrants encamped some were
leaving there waggons with the intention of packing through while others were
lightning of there stock of provisions sell for all prices under first cost and
some were throwing it away on the plains we learned here that there had been
upwards of four thousand waggons registered at this place all bound to cross
the Rocky Mountains. This fort has not been established but short time the
buildings are all of the temporary kind they are built of sod cut out in square
blocks and put up like stone there being no plank used except the doors and
window shutters which are brought from the Missouri river they are covered by
laying poles on brush across and then covered with turf they hay built Casells
of sods which answers a veryy good purpose I understand they are having a
circular saw go up here so if there is any timber here they will soon exchange
there sod buildings for frame buildings which will make it more much more
comfortable for those who live in this remote part of the world two miles west
of the fort we past some two or three men who were engaged in planting corn the
prerarie had been broken and they were breaking a small hole in the sod droping
a few grains of corn there and covering it slightlely left it to the mercy of
animals of the plains as they had no fence around I nor any way of making one
only by diching which would cost more labour than there crop would be worth We
halted at noon and partook of refreshments as usule after which we traveled
some two or three miles when we found a fine encampment wood being somewhat
unhandy but as our animals were very much fatigue we camped for the day. Cleare
weather dist 12 miles
June 9th Saturday:
There seemed to be a general rush this morning with one and all to get away
from the place where we had been deprived of one of our company by the awfull
epidemic which seemed to be raging on the road at this time. It has become so
customary to see fresh graves and company laying by on account of sickness that
I seldom even speak of them or even think of them only when I see them.
June 20th Wednesday:
We evacuated our camp this morning by six o'clock and traveled until 11 when we
halted for the noon. We did not leave untill two o'clock when we again resumed
our march which we kept up untill 5 o'clock in the eavening when we camped
neare some wells on the raod as we were not on the river here. We were in sight
of Castle rock which had the appearance of being some 5 or six miles from the
road. The bluffs are not so rought as they have been and they have a more
regular or uniform appearance. We have seen but little timber today so we have
to resort to buffalo chips as a substitute for wood to boil our coffee fry a
little bacon bake a few slap jacks which is our daily mode of cooking. The land
is verry sandy but of a much better quality than that we traveled over
yesterday. The sand has not interrupted us so much day as we had a heavy rain
yesterday. We have crossed two small ravines with pure running watter in each.
We find a number of wells in which is good watter. If these are too far apart
and we are not neare the river we dig a well which is seldom more than three
feet deep. The day has been very warm but cleare. Preston More is complaining
of a diarea which I feare will terminate in cholera as it has been running on
two days. dist 20 mi.
One thing I tried to do while reading this was to follow along with them on a map. As they crossed rivers, stopped at forts or like above saw "Castle Rock " (probably courthouse rock) I could somewhat make out the trail they were traveling across the plains. I also liked in this entry he talked about what they ate. The next day they traveled to "Castle Rock" and Philip made his mark on the stone. I would love to go there some day and try to find his name!
June 21st. When we arrived at the rock we found quite a number of spectators there
among them
were three ladies one of which seemed to be rambling all over the
rock which was composed of a sandy composition. There were steps out in the
rock so we ascended to its to where I with my pocket knife engrave my name in
the stone where there were thousand of names as it was a general thing for all
those who visited this rock and other noted places on the road to engrave their
names. We could see Chimny rock which was some 12 or 15 miles ahead.
July 5th Thursday: I
noticed that the sun had made its appearance this morning and the day began to
grow old before we had prepared our rude meale. The cause of this I can easily
account for. We have a kegg of Alcohol with us which we taped yesterday
eavening as it was the fourth of July and we all tasted of it pretty freely so
we did not retire as soon as we had usually done. This morning after breakfast
I
with two others of the company went up the creek in search of grass which we
found to be verry in some places. So we hung a cople of sythes and mowed
several hundred pound of hay to carry with us as we undisstood that we had to
travel some sixty miles before we could get any grass after we leave here. I
find the wild flax here as large as I ever saw it in the States. This streame
is well supplied with timber and good grasing so it is now occupied with
emigrants from its mouth some three miles above us where there is some two
hundred head of animals belonging to the government train. We discovered an old
Indian wigwam which has been evacuated some months. I discovered several
antelope this morning one of our men killed one which was very fat. The day has
been fare.
July 19th Thursday: We
disposed of our last two horse waggons here on condition that it would be
delivered to us in Cal. We also made another attempt to lighten our waggons by
throwing away part of our loadening. We now harnessed 8 mules to one waggon 6
to one & five to the other three being all that belong to our Joint Stock
Company there being one that had traveled from one days travel this side of St.
Jo with us this making four waggons that belonged to our company. We left camp
about nine o'clock and after passing the twin buttes a short distance we
learned that the Sweet watter ran a short distance to the right so we halted
for the noon and drove our animals to it as we understood there was fine
grasing there after which we drove on to the Pacific Springs wher we encamped
for the night there being several trains neare the Spring we took our place a
short distance to the west of it. I don't think I ever saw the like before.
There was an ox or horse laying dead allmost every road and still there wer
trains stoping all around them. The country is assending from Sweet watter
untill we got within two miles of this place when we past over the deviding
ridge between the Atlantic & Pacific which is called the South Pass. One
would hardly know they wer assending or desending the rise is so regular and
gentle. There is no wood to be had but sage. The watter is verry cold and
grasing is very moderate so our camping is in a but poor place. Notwithstanding
we are on the route of the Pacific we had a few drops of rain today as we
passed through the South Pass. Dist 14 miles
Aug 23rd Thursday:
Verry early this morning a gentleman came to our camp in search of a gray pony.
We had not seen any strays. He then said that he belonged to a company form
Cinci- and that they wer our of bacon and would give flour sugar coffee or the
money for some. We had none for sale so after being informed thus he road off.
We left camp at our usual hour of starting and after driving some three miles
we came to the road that led through the hills their being a road through the
canyon also. So we thought it best to go the river road on account of watter.
So we had not proseeded far in the canyon untill the gentleman that had come to
us in camp this morning rode up and asked one of our teamsters for something to
eat which he got and road off amediately some distance when he was seen
dividing it with another man. This caused some suspicion but we saw nothing
more of them untill noon when this gentleman again came up to us in company
with Goodfellow who had once threatened to take a horse from I. Foster which
belonged to government as he said he has orders form the quartermaster to take
all government stock. We invited them to stop and share our simple meal which
was composed of cold bread and a little cold bacon and cold watter. They
acepted the offer and after noon rode on in company with some of our company
for several miles after which they road on ahead. The road along the river is
tolerably good and once or twice to day I have seen a great deal of lava. There
is no fead on the river so we left it a little before sundown as the road ran
some 5 miles across the hills before it struck it again so we drove on a short
distance when we came to a spring a short distance from the road. Here some two
or three waggons had encamped there being a little grass scattered among the
sage brush. Here I. Foster & C. Churchill wer some three miles ahead of the
waggons and they thought it best to encamp here for the night so they
dismounted and after freeing their horses of the saddles they went to the
spring which was something more than a hundred yds off leaving their guns with
their saddles. They had not more than reached the spring before the three men
that nooned with us came up on a lope ordered Foster to give up the horse which
he said he would not do. Goodfellow then ordered one of the which he called
Wadkins to take the horse. W- dismounted and proseded a few paces towards the
horse when Foster told him to keep his hand off of the horse or he would shoot
him, at this Goodfellow& Jeffers which was the others named both drew revolvers
and said that they would [shoot] him but Foster held on to the horse and said
he would shoot the first man that tuched the horse and as Churchill never
caried arms he gathered a stone and told Foster not to give up the horse so
they gave up this project which would have cost them some trouble if they had
undertaken to take it through. Churchill told them that they should show their
athority before we would give up the horse which they said they could do when
the came to Dr. White who was ahead a short distance with the Pioneers. The day
has ben very pleasnat. Dist 28 miles
Sep 4th Tuesday: The
morning was cool and chilled us so that the few scattered willows we had
gathered on the eavening wer all consumed in a verry short time. For the
puurpose of warming ourselves we left camp at 6 o'clock and traveled down the
river over a sandy and barren road for some 8 miles when we came to the pooint
wher the road leading to Feather river in 180 miles left the river. [margin
note: Left Humbolt] Here we halted for noon when we had quite an argument about
the way we should go some saying that they would go by the old road any how but
finaly we put it to the vote and there being so equaly divided that if was a
tie but as C- Chruchill & H. Buckner wer boath on the side in favour of
going the neare way to the mines as it was called the opposing party yealded to
their judgment which was much regreted by all the company long before we
reached the settlements. [margin note: Took Lassin's cutoff] We left here at 2
o'clock and drove on to some springs some 12 miles from the river. The country
is low and leavel and is almost destitute of vegitation excepting the sage and
greasewood. It is a a ashy nature and looks as if the hole of it was covered
with watter at not great period. Dist 18 mile
Since traveling in desert conditions they started traveling at night or late into the night. They also continue to have animal troubles now especially with lack of water, hot conditions, and low food supply.
Sep 8th Saturday: We
lay by untill late I the after noon when we again took up our march and after
traveling untill 3 o'clock in the morning we came to a ravine. Here we wer
informed that we wer at the head of the valley of the great Mudd Lake so we
halted untill day when we found that we wer not neare watter or grass so we
again moved on to the spring when we encamped and after getting our animals(or
those that we could for we had lost three since we left the last wattering
place I had worked all night trying to get one to grass but was compelled t
leave it at day light as it would not travel) on the grass we prepared a hasty
meal after which we lay down and wrapped ourselves in a sweet and profound
sleep for several hours Dist 14 miles
On October 26th they finally had reached their destination about 7 months since setting out from Kentucky.
Oct 26th Friday: We
wer all ready and so we commenced our march by the first appearnance of the sun
(margin note: Long's Bar). After traveling some 8 miles we came to the forkes
of the road one leading to the city and the other to Long's bar on Feather
river. One or two of the company was desirous of going to the city. They said
to by provisions but as they had no teame but those that was far behind they
all concluded to got to the dignis first so we took the road leading to Long's
bar and traveled on until noon when we halted a few minutes and ate a little
heard bread and drank a little watter after which we traveled untill after dark
when we came in sight of the encampments at Longs. It reminded me of a city
when iluminted to its hiest. As we passed throught a revine boath sides seemed
to be litterly covered with tents. All had large fires neare them which made it
almost as light as day and all seemed (margin note: Feather River) to be life
an glee as a thousand voises seemed to mingle together some talking lafin &
singing. These with the roaring of watters as they dashed over the stony beds
and against the iron bound shores of this river semed wild and romantic to my
ears. I now thought of the condition I was in at present my phisical strength
almost worn out by the continued travels over a long and soletary road leading
over mountains desarts for nearly half its distance and at present without a
dollar in the world my patience being tired or almost entirely worn out but I
again thought that this might have ben the case with many of these who now
seemed to be enjoying all that they wished for at present and knowing there was
many yet behind who was likely to suffer more than I have I thanked my God for
the kindness and blessings I have received and do not murmur. We now came to
the river. Here we made inquiry for Capt Swift who had left his train at the
Big meadows and came on ahead. We wer told that he was on the opposite side so
we crossed over when we found him encamped and after he had prepared a first
rate supper as I thought we satesfied our hunger and more after which we lay
doun on the sand and soon was in the arms of a profound sleep. Dist 23 miles
The next entry he talks about the first couple weeks mining and what happens when you don't strike it rich but have bills to pay!
Oct 27th Saturday: This morning Capt Swift and my campanions the names of who I have not as yet learned started for Bidle's bar which was some 8 miles up the river. I left my rifle here at a trading establishment as I was informed that I had no use for it and it being heavy to carry. We traveled up the river and saw a great many men at work when we arived at Bidles. We wer told that there was a great deal of gold taken out a few miles up the South fork and as there was no chance to get a clame here without __________ it we thought we wowld try our luck on the new diggins so I went to a merchant & after telling him my situation he said I could have anything I wanted so I layed in a weeks provisions which consisted of a little Salt Pork and flour that had become a little sower but this was the best I could do. I also bought a ________ and pick. My bill amounted to $80 dollars this bing the largest sum I had ever owed at once without knowing certain wher the money was to come from. We set out on Sunday and traveled untill Tuesday eavening when we halted more on account of our fatigue as the road had led us over mountains and through ravines almost impassable. We now ________ out a place to mine and on Wednsday set in as if for our lives which we kept up untill Saturday eavening when it began to rain and on Sunday morning our hole weeks work was completely covered with watter (margin note: Sacramento City) and as we had taken a clame and intended to __________ it we had not made a cent and as our weeks rations wer entirely consumed we had to leave for Bidle's bar so we packed up our blanketts and set out for the bar above mentioned wher we arived on Monday. I now hired [out] a few days at $10 per day and after paying my debts and making money enough to have my expences to the City of Sacramento I left this place and falling in company with a gentleman by the name of __________ . So we set off about the 1st of November in the rane and as it was verry mudy and the streams all verry high we did not arive at the mouth of Feather river untill the 10th. Here we learned that ther was a steamboat that was togo down in a few hours so we took passage being verry much fatigued with our walk through the mud so we left at 3 and landed in Sacramento at 5 o'clock. Dist from Feather river 120 miles. Dist from ______ on the mouth of F. river _______. The valley seems to be verry leavel and fertile with a number of creeks and rivers coming from the mountains all roling there watters into the Sacramento river on the banks of these streames are seen a variety of timbers of which the oak is the largest but is not suitable for building purposes as it is low and scruby. There are a great number of ranches in this valley the owners of whome are mixed population there being Americans French duch Spanish &c &c. They all own large bands of cattle & horses which have only ben valued on account of there tallow and hides heretofore but are now valuably for their beef. These ranchers all live in houses built of dobay or unburnt brick.
His final entry spans over a longer period of time catching up on what happened. Turns out mining wasn't that great and he tried his hand at other things. Unfortunately he got Typhoid Fever and decided to head north to Oregon to the better climate. This is where he would stay until he passed in 1913. He eventually owned a sawmill and then became a photographer.
April 19th Saturday:
The morning was clowdy and several light showers of rain fell and as I was
ready for to make a start for Oregon I caught my animals and being accompanied
to Olny's creek by Minges the gentleman that I had sold my intrust to in the
ranch when I fell in company with 18 men all bound for Oregon so on the
folowing day we left the valley and made our way (margin note: Shasty Bute)
through the mountains. It rained verry hard which made it verry disagreeable
traveling and as I was unwell and shuck with the ague every other day I thought
it was a hard trip but I felt as though I was runing from death as I was
undoubtaly unable to stand the attacts of the disease that seemed to have clung
to me for the last 10 months so I bore up under these hopes that I was soon
going to a healthy climate wher I might recover my health again. In three days
travel we found ourselves at the foot of Shaste but here we encamped for the
night in sight of a mountain where we could see the snow that has probaly layed
here for ages and will lay there for ages to come. The road this far is through
the most sterril mountains I have ever passed through - and would not think
passable with animal at all had I not seen and drove them over them myself. We
passed a beautifull (margin note: 1851 Aprl 23rd) spring to day of as good soda
watter as I ever tasted before and I think much better than those on Bare river
in Great Basin; yesterdy eavening I was riding a Spanish horse and as I had ben
shaking with a chill for more than two hours and then it was leaving me when I
felt very sick at this instant we past a steep muntain that we either had to
assend or cross the Sacramento river twice. As river ws high we took to the
mountain and after assending one or two verry steep points I dismounted to lead
my horse over some rock in the road. The sadle having worked a little father
back than its original place when I mounted my horse turned down the hill and
began tojump stiff leged then he threw me over his head and I think I went
through the top of some brush 10 or 15 feet high and I dare say to the distance
of 60 feet down the mountain before I could stop myself but luckily I chance to
escape unhurt. This is a miracle to me as there was a number of stones and
trees against which if I had ben lodged I shurely must have ben injured badly.
I caught my horse and after replacing my sadle mounted him again as I was so
weak I could not walk.
April 24th Thursday:
We left Shasta Butte at our usual time of starting & traveled on to Shasta
valley. Here we halted and lay by on the 25th some of our company going to the
mines and returned on the same day. They say that ther is a great many miners
here and that some are doing tolerably well. We left here on the 26 and travel
through Shaste Valley which is 20 or 30 miles in length and in many places 15
or 20 wide. It seemes to be verry fertile and is covered with bunch grass.
There is a great munny small lakes in the valley which makes me think it is or
has ben a crater and all these butes have ben throun up by fires once in time
and the valley has ben worn by the stormes for many centuries into a leavel
around them which give them qwite a picturesque appearance as they are
surrounded by tall mountains on almost all sides. We traveled on from here
crossing the Klamet and then to Roges river valley which is a beautifull place
and if there was any access only by crossing sterrill & almost impassable
mountains it would soon be settled with the Anglo-Saxons as it is by fare the
most romantic and picturesque valley that I ever saw. Besides it is verry
fertill and abounds in springs and small mountains streames of ice cold watter.
Its margin is also covered with the lofty pine and furs so everry thing that is
required by nature is well provided for the climate is beautifull and pleasant. We past on from this place through the south
Umpqua Contry which I find to be verry fine country and think it cannot be beat
as a grasing contry. We came to many claims but found no one ocupying them. We
halted a short time at the crossing of the Umpqwa N. Here there is a toun laid
out and there are several ________ going up at present. I do not think this can
ever be a properous toun as the country is small and cannot suport it. From
here we continued our travel untill we came to the cross roads. Here our
company broke up and the most of the company stoped at ________ Reed's &
one or two other places. I now began to think I had not bettered my situation
as I was still shaking and had not got in the Willomet Valley yet wher I
expected to met with more accomadation than cowld be expected here so on the
hole there wer four others that was going to start for Portland on the folowing
day an so I accompanied them and we crossed the Cala _______ mountains on the
tenth May 1851. We now made our way towards Portland wher we landed on the 23rd
inst. As I had formed an acqwaintance with T. C. Banning in crossing the
mountains he had told me that he had run a sricular saw several yares in the
states and lumber being high in the upper part of the valley I bought a
circular saw an B & byself went back to the forks of the Willamet river as
we wer mcuh leased with this part of the country wher we established a saw mill
& run it with horse power during the summer.
This is the end of the diary from Philip. Later on he would marry and have 5 children. Luckily since he took up photography there are several photos of him and his family. I also found his obituary on Ancestry which talks about the very interesting life he lived.
